96 Points Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – Laurent Charvin is, in an inexplicable way, one of the most underappreciated vignerons in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Certified in organic viticulture, he manages 33 hectares of vines, including 11 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 20 hectares in the Côtes du Rhône appellation and two hectares in Vin de Pays. Charvin crafts wines of real finesse and velvety tannins through meticulous viticulture, spontaneous grassing and careful soil management—practices that few in the region employ. His vineyards are primarily composed of sandy soils with clay clusters. “Picking at the right time and freshness is the key in the south,” he says. A strong advocate of whole bunch fermentation to enhance “salinity in the wines,” Charvin matures all his wines in concrete tanks, resulting in sensuality, elegance, finesse and an ethereal character. Another highlight this year, Charvin’s 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape exhales a complex, floral bouquet of violet, rose petals, dark cherries, spices and menthol intertwined with delicate garrigue notes. Medium to full-bodied and fine-boned with a layered core of fruit, bright acids and velvety tannins, it finishes long and ethereal with a delicate tannic frame thanks to whole bunches. This blend of 80% Grenache, 7% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and the rest of Vaccarèse and Counoise is one of my favorites this year.
“Charvin may indeed produce the Richebourg of Chateauneuf du Pape.” — Robert Parker Jr, The Wine Advocate
Laurent Charvin has only 10 ha. of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Until recently, Laurent was one of the remaining growers to vinify traditionally, with whole-cluster fermentations. Now, others have seen his success and are following his lead. In addition to leaving the stems, Laurent’s élevage is undertaken in concrete tank – no barrel. While the domaine is certified organic, Laurent also employs some biodynamic practices. His wines all undergo indigenous yeast fermentation. The 2021 blend is 80% grenache, 7% syrah, 5% mourvèdre, 4% vaccarèse, 4% counoise. The wine does not undergo any filtration or fining. It is bottled after 21 months.
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